Basque-ing in the Glory

Seared Sea Scallops with parsnip and lemon curd.


The mountainous areas along the Spanish/French border may be homeland for the Basque people, but The Harvest Vine on Madison is a home away from home for their eclectic cuisine. Well worth the week in advance reservation, this rustic little number impressed all night long. Small plates and huge tastes, just the way I like it. The dishes are infused with varied inspiration. Spanish, French, inland, and coastal components are all flawlessly represented and harmoniously presented.

Where do I begin? More importantly, where should YOU begin. Every moment you waste before ordering the cheese sampler you will come to regret. Order it immediately...order it on your way in the door...on your way to the table...order it yesterday...but order it! We made the mistake of only ordering two different cheeses to sample before dinner. We were summarily wailed upon by their awesomeness. One goat's milk that was practically flowing it was so soft at room temperature, and a cow's milk bleu that was so strong and phenolic it nearly left me catatonic. Later, after at least four rounds of tapas, my wife stole away and, unbeknownst to the rest of the dining party, ordered the sampler. When it arrived, everyone's eyes bulged. Next to bulge were our cheesey bellies. Another goat's milk, this one firmer and milder, a sheep's milk Manchego, and another, saltier, spicier cow's bleu joined our two original selectons. Like I said, order it as soon as you get there. For less than the price of a bottle of wine you get five 1 oz. servings of queso magnifico.

Speaking of vino...
They have an unbellievable wine list that sports some special wines. I was most impressed with the house Tinta and Jumilla that they had for $23 a bottle. Super stuff...super price. We had a Cab/Syrah/Tempranillo blend from Catalunya (Also around $23), that the whole table willingly guzzled.


A little French influence in this classic Gateau au chocolate.

Angulas are a Spanish delicacy. Angulas also happen to be baby eels that cost about $200/lb. Harvest Vine fakes it pretty well. They use Hake from the Bay of Biscay in Spain and prepare it to mimic the tiny, barely born, noodley fish. The Hake eels are combined in an omelette of organic duck eggs, herbs, and olive oil. The main player resembles delicate vermicelli that seem to play, swimming about the moist, fluffy duck eggs. A strong dish but light on the stomach. A welcome beginning to the meal, as this was the first tapas delivered.

After a solid yet overshadowed eggplant dish, the sassy mesero brought the seared scallops. Perfectly cauterized and surfing on a wave of zesty lemon curd the mollusks impressed. With a bright whiff of brine these ultra fresh bi- valves were tender but firm and possessed a pleasant nuttiness that played well with the sauce. The curd evoked dreams of lemon gravy, the perfect accompaniment for the rich, creamy scallop.

For the true carnivores, we sampled a guinea fowl stuffed canalone, pan-roasted squab, and a beautiful venison tenderloin. The squab was a little difficult to share given its dimunitive size but we persevered. The breast portion of the little pigeon was cooked perfectly medium rare and presented in all its succulence on a whipped potato puree. The baked canalone stuffed with the guinea fowl was simmered in a fried tomato sauce and topped with a mild spanish goat cheese. It was comforting and I loved it for its simplicity. The venison which was also seared to a stunning deep ruby-red temperature was the final course, and a great way to go out. This venado was beyond lean, while simultaneously carrying a red meat-flavored coat of arms that would make a mignon salute.